Carrot Growing Guide

Imperator carrots are long and thin, up to 10 inches long. This variety needs loose soil so that the roots don't get compacted while they're growing. Most baby carrots you find in grocery stores are actually Imperator carrots because of their higher sugar content.

Danvers carrots are the carrots that have all of the characteristics of the traditional carrot. They usually grow from 4" - 6" with rounded tops and pointed tips, classic deep orange color, and a sweet flavor profile.

The Nantes carrot is known for its almost perfectly cylindrical shape from top to bottom and blunted ends. This type have very little cores and are a favorite among chefs for their sweet flavor and deep orange color.

Chantenay carrots are excellent for those with rocky or clay soil for their power to push through soils that aren't typically ideal. They have short conical roots that measure 2" - 3" on average. Chantenay carrots shouldn't be left to get too large and should be harvested early so they don't turn fibrous.

Purple carrots get their color from a high concentration of the antioxidant anthocyanin. They make amazing carrots for juicing and give a colorful pop to salads and soups.

Yellow carrots are typically sweeter than orange varieties. Their taproots are not woody or fibrous and gives them a great texture. Yellow carrots are wonderful candidates for pickling and will maintain their sweet flavor profile during the pickling process.

Carrots grow best when direct-seeded outdoors and doesn’t transplant well because they don’t like having their roots disturbed. Carrot seedlings may have a hard time emerging due to hard top soil, or crusting. See Extra Credit below for a handy tip to avoid crusting!

We recommend direct seeding carrots in a thick band along the desired row. This will ensure a solid stand of carrots and help to aid in weed control once tops get larger. Carrots are a great crop for double-row planting on drip irrigation. When choosing a spot to grow summer squash, full sun is always recommended.

For this strategy, plant two rows 3″ apart with drip tape in the middle then skip about 12′, then plant another two rows 3″ apart. The double row technique allows for easy weed control because the tops shade the area between the double rows. It also allows you to maximize the garden space because you can get two rows of harvest for almost the same amount of space as one row.

Row Spacing – 2 to 3 feet
Plant Spacing – 24 to 40 seeds per ft in the row (On the higher rate come back and thin after they emerge)
Planting Depth – Lightly cover

Raised Bed & Container Planting

Row Spacing – 1 to 2 feet
Plant Spacing – 24 to 40 seeds per ft in the row or 24 to 30 per sq ft (On the higher rate come back and thin after they emerge)
Planting Depth – Lightly cover

Important Note

Keep the carrots seed bed wet until the seeds germinate. If the beds get dry it will cause delayed and poor germination.

Carrots generally taste better the smaller they are because the sugars in the vegetable haven’t begun to convert to fiber. The best way to determine if your carrots are ready for harvest is to check the top of the root for its size. If you’re growing carrots like the long, thin Viper Carrot, they will be mature at around 1/2″ to 3/4″ in diameter. Stockier varieties like the Hercules Carrot will be at full maturity at 1/2″ around. So if you want a sweeter carrot, harvest your crop at a smaller diameter.

To harvest carrots, a simple twist a pull motion is the easiest method as long as the soil isn’t too hard. Using a garden fork or shovel in colder soils can help get them out easier. If you’re growing carrots in the winter, letting one or two frosts occur before harvesting will actually make the carrots sweeter. During the warmer months, if you experience a heat wave, it’s a good idea to go ahead and pull up the whole harvest so you’re not as risk of the carrots getting bitter.

Like strawberries, carrots can actually be overwintered depending on your climate. As long as pests aren’t a present issue and the soil doesn’t completely freeze through and through, you can keep your carrots in the ground during the winter months. Simply use mulch or row covers and let the roots continue to get sweeter the colder it gets.

After harvest, cut the green tops off leaving about an inch or two, keeping the dirt on the roots, and store in a cool, dark place and use them as needed. If you’re storing fresh carrots to eat within a day or two, washing off the dirt is fine as long as you store them with plenty of cold and moisture. So a plastic perforated bag in the fridge with a damp paper towel will keep them fresh.